After completing this journey before and also
one to Barcelona I'm starting to get what I need for this type of trip down to
what I feel is about spot on.
The
stats below are very similar to my post on the journey "from the south of
England to Barcelona" with a few tweaks and differences:
Here are the stats:
- 37 days (which include 12 rest days)
- 1050 miles
- Average 28 miles a day (this includes all rest days)
- Average 42 miles a day (not including rest days)
- No punctures (touch wood)
- generally 1 quiche and Pain au Raisin eaten per day (this changed to Tortilla and any type of chocolate cake that the Spanish were offering)
- ? bottles of Bordeaux
- Average cost of camping 7.5 euros (cheapest was 3 euros, most expensive was 12) per night each (based on us both sharing a plot with our own small tents)
Brief Info about my bike, camping ítems and
extras :
- Standard 2013 model Thorn Sherpa with Deore brakes/gears
- Tyres are Schwalbe 2" Dureme tyres and Schwalbe innertubes (I changed them to Schrader so I’d have wider availablity of a pump if mine broke/got nicked)
- Still using the trusty Hope hollowtech Bottom Bracket (now has over 4000 miles on it) My last Shimano BB51 bottom bracket only lasted just over 1000 miles)
- Lock is a Kryptonite D lock with cable.
- Pump is a Topeak roadmorph G
- Stove is a Hi Gear collapsable stove with an Eldrid adaptor for using Camping gaz cartridges
- Tent is old Vango Alpha 200 (had to do major sewing repairs on this for it to last this trip)
- Mattress is Thermarest (with chair kit)
- Sleeping bag is basic 3 season Eurohike jobby
- Maps I´m using are the yellow Michelin ones that show cycle routes but although these were only bought 2 years ago a few of the routes aren´t shown. In addition to these maps I would get some other cycle path (or Voie Verte) info, along with campsite info, from the Tourist Info Centre (TIC) once I had a rough idea of my mileage I´d be doing.
- One rock peg which has been invaluable for some sites as some of the pitches are more like hardstandings than anything.
I
knew from previous experience that during this route down through France, even
though it could be 30 degrees and sunny, at this time of year we could have
problems with campsites being open. There were issues with this so we would
have to think ahead and go to the TIC (Tourist Info Centre) earlier in the day
to get a heads up for my next campsite. This would sometimes mean I would have
to adjust my mileage significantly to make it fit.
Sometimes,
however , the information from the T.I.C’s have, on occasions, been totally
wrong.
Note
that mileage stated can and often does include nipping to shops or bar after
setting up camp or, indeed, getting lost.
Day 1 Tuesday 16th Sept 2014
Poole to Brockenhurst
37
miles (total 37)
As
with the last trip to Barcelona, I tried my utmost to trim the weight down to
the bare essentials (yes I do need my inflatable pillow and no I won't saw my
toothbrush in half) and have managed to get my total bike weight down to a
feather light 45kgs (a whole 2 kgs less than last trip)
I
met my friend Bob at Bournemouth pier and cycled in the sun along the prom (NCN
route 2) to Christchurch.
Continuing
on the NCN 2 through Bransgore and to Brockenhurst where we camp at "New
Park Farm" which is a nice clean place and as it's out of season it's virtually
empty (just how we like it).
The
site is in the middle of the New Forest. On other campsites there are often
horses roaming around, at New Park Farm it's deer, and it is VERY DEAR at
£17.50 between us. It will be one of the dearest campsites we'll stay at.
We
popped into the Village of Brockenhurst, for a few beers at the Foresters as
the sun was dropping and then a steak at the Rose and Crown which was as good
as it was the year before and quite fair value at £14.
We
used the off road track to get back to the campsite which was fun in an eerie
sort of way late at night with the fog falling.
Camping
New Park Farm £17.50 for 2
Day 2 Wednesday 17th Sept 2014
Brockenhurst to Portsmouth
37
miles (total 74)
Went
for breaky in Brock and headed out on the NCN 2 across the New Forest to Hythe
where we cycle to the end of the 19th century pier and catch the small ferry to
Southampton.
Through
the bustle of Southampton and still using the NCN 2 we take the very cheap,
small, quirky and pink ferry from Hamble to Warsash.
Then
onto Portsmouth via another ferry not quite so cheap, small, quirky or pink.
We
catch the Channel ferry late evening from Portsmouth and settle in for the
12-hour crossing (the idea of using this ferry is so that we get a nice early
start on the French side as it arrives there at 8am).
Day 3 Thursday 18th Sept 2014
St Malo to St Meen Le Grande.
53
miles (total 127)
Out
of St Malo after a quick coffee and PaC stop (Pain au Chocolate) and to the
Voie Verte which comes down from Dinard and is no easier to find than the last
time I tried.
We
get to Dinan and use the Canal route which is really nice.
After
a very humid days ride we stop at Camping Le Port Juhel which is a Municipal
campsite in St Meen Le Grande. It's has a very basic toilet block but the
pitches are good. There's only one other pitch being used which is by 4 Spanish
girls that the previous day had some of their belongings stolen from the tent.
Camping
Le Port Juhel, St Meen Le Grand 6 Euros for 2
Day 4 Friday 19th Sept 2014
St Meen Le Grande to Le Roc Saint
Andre
33
miles (total 160)
Into
St Meen for a PaR (Pain au Raisin) and baguette supplies.
A
cloudy, rainy threatening start which stayed dry and was perfect cycling as it
was nice and cool. The clouds soon burnt off and after a baguette stop in
Mauron it turned from cool to a sunny, hot and humid 25 degrees. On the Voie
Verte to Ploermel where we stopped for a beer.
Back
on the "piste" and to the Brest-Nantes canal.
We
were originally heading for St Martin but after 33 miles we've spotted what
looks like a nice campsite next to the canal so have decided to stop here for
the night. It's a pleasant spot apart from a few dogs. Good to arrive early and
relax a bit.
The
owners are very friendly. The site has an amazing section of retro caravans for
hire.
Camping
Domaine du Roc 5 euros each
Day 5 Saturday 20th Sept 2014
Le Roc Saint Andre to Fegreac
36 miles (total 196)
Back
"on the piste" along the canal and it's easy riding in cooler
temperatures with grey cloud. Stopped at Redon for a spot of "Wifi ing” at
the TIC and to get supplies. There are a fair few down and outs here and not
the best vibe as there are also a number of youths about with their
"mascot" dogs.
We
follow the canal path to the Municipal campsite next to the canal near Fegreac(note
for anyone trying to find this site: don’t go into Fegreac itself. The site is
right by the canal). It's the place I stopped at last time. This time it's even
quieter and we bag the best spot with our very own picnic bench. Ahh, luxury !
The
toilet block is as basic as can be but it's clean. Thing is, the shower takes
tokens, which I only discover once I've stripped off of course. Donning my
towel I walk over to the only other guy on the site to ask about tokens. Turns
out he's Irish and nice enough to lend us 2 until the woman from the site comes
round.
Camping
Du Bellion 3 euros each inc shower token (no wifi)
Day 6 Sunday 21st Sept 2014
Fegreac to Saint Michel Chef Chef
45 miles (total 241)
Nice cool ride along the canal then onto the roads which were quiet to St Nazaire. The wind has turned in our favour and the sun is out as we make it safely over the St Nazaire bridge.
We stop at St Brevin L'Ocean at the TIC for Wifi and on to Saint Michel Chef Chef where we're camping. We tried camping Bord su Mer but they wanted 17.50 euros so we've found a nicer, quieter and cheaper place.
Camping
Bel Essor 12.80 Euros for 2 (no wifi)
Day 7 Monday 22nd Sept 2014
Saint Michel Chef Chef to Fromentine
39 miles (total 280)
After
a great night sleep we wake up to what smells like chocolate from a nearby
biscuit factory.
A
nice cold clear start and we make our way to Pornic using the very nice but
very round the houses Voie Verte route (on some parts of the route they take us
in a northerly direction).
We
arrive at the little bridge and carry our bikes over and head on, with the wind
behind us, to Fromentine where we find a campsite that we share with some very
hungry Mozzies.
Camping La Darotte 8 Euro for 2 (no Wifi. free Mozzies)
Day 8 Tuesday 23rd Sept 2014
Fromentine to Les Sables d’Olonne
50 miles (total 330)
NIce
riding along the Voie Verte through St Jean de Mont
and
finally into Les Sables where we're staying at Camping Les Fosses Rouges as I
did last year.
Camping
Les Fosses Rouges 14.80 Euros for 2 ( free wifi )
Day 9 Wednesday 24th Sept 2014
Les Sables d’Olonne to Tranche sur Mer
30 miles (total 360)
Out of Sables and we head out along the coast "piste" which is really nice. Same weather as recent days (cold start but sunny and burning away any mist by the hour) which makes for good riding.
We've
decided to do a shorter day and so we've stopped at a campsite I was at last
year in La Griere near Tranche sur Mer called La Grande Vallee. Arriving early
is great and I've got some washing done and on the line. Now sitting in the sun
on the terrace over looking the rather empty peaceful campsite while I down a few
beers.
Camping
La Grande Vallee 14 Euros for 2 ( free wifi )
Day 10 Thursday 25th Sept 2014
Tranche sur Mer to La Rochelle
36
miles (total 396)
A
warm start out to St Michel en l’Herm to use the Voie Verte across the
marshland which was so full of mozzies in places I daren't stop pedalling as
when I did I got bitten.
Met
an older Ozzy couple that had just cycled up from the border of France/Spain.
After
the marshland into and through Esnandes to Marsilly where we had a quiche stop.
Got
to La Gord to find the campsite Les Trois Lys which I used last year was
closed. We've pedalled a bit further down the road to au petit port de
l'Houmeau.
We
were wondering about the price of the campsite so I went into reception and
asked what the price would be for "2 poor cyclists" (in French) and
the guy replied in perfect English “When should I start crying?” He was a
really funny guy and said "It's normally 16 Euros but with Gay discount it
will be 10 euros".
The
site is fine and it's good to arrive early enough to enjoy some time in the sun
with a few beers.
Camping
"au petit port de l'Houmeau" 5 euros each ( with gay discount )( free
wifi )
Day 11 Friday 26th Sept 2014
La Rochelle to Tremblade
60 miles (total 456)
Said
goodbye to the funny Portuguese guy Victor (who spoke fluent Spanish and German
as well as French and English) at the “camp” reception and headed off in the
warm and sunny weather round the coastal path and into La Rochelle centre where
we stop for quiche, a massive PaR and maps at the TIC.
Down
the coast and into Rochefort to the TIC for info about campsites further south
that would be open.
Through
and out of Rochefort and over the "Transporter Bridge" (open April to
end of Oct) which is the nicer way to get over the river Charente, only costs a
couple of Euros and put us on a better road to find the "Canal de la
Seudre a la Charente" which is a very pleasant few kms in the direction of
Marennes. Anyway, on arrival of said "open campsite" we find it to be
closed. After a few other dead end options we find a site called Les Pins. No
one is about so we pitch up anyway.
The
idea of getting to Tremblade was to get out of the marshy area and thus get
away from all the mozzies but it would seem they have spilled over into the
non-marshy area and have joined us here too.
Early
de-camp in the morning and use the "early bird special bunking
discount".
Camping
Les Pins
Day 12 Saturday 27th Sept 2014
Tremblade to Euronat
40 miles (total 496)
Early
start and straight to the Patisserie for PaR and quiche (worst PaR we've had in
France. I reckon Greggs could do a better one and that is going some).
Down
la Palmyre Zoo and along the coast to Royan. No luck getting a Gaz cannister in
Royan so are gambling on finding one in Soulac sur Mer.
Onto
the ferry which was 9.80 Euros for both of us and then onto the very nice Voie
Verte where we stop at a small picnic area to fuel up.
After
sorting out our leg fuel we went in search of stove fuel and found some at the
Carrefour in Soulac sur Mer.
We
avoid the rest of the Voie Verte to use the more direct main road and get into
Euronat which is a naturist campsite I stayed at last time. It's a lovely site
and quite big, covering some 800 acres. To get from one end to the other you
really need a bike, as it’s a mile and a half long by a mile wide.
Bizzarly
we're pitched right next to a Dutch guy called Albert that was here last time.
As
it's off season, despite it being sunny and 25 degrees, it's really nice and
quiet.
After
setting up I couldn't resist heading down to the sea for a dip (the way Mother
nature intended).
Camping
Euronat 13.40 Euros for 2
Day 13 Sunday 28th Sept 2014
Rest day at Euronat
3 miles (total 499)
Hot
to start but bit of rain came in about 4pm. Very warm evening. Ultra quiet over
night apart from the sound of the sea. one of the best nights sleep ever .
Day 14 Monday 29th Sept 2014
Rest day 2 at Euronat
20 miles (total 519)
Very
warm over night and rained about 7am for an hour.
As
it was cloudy we decided to go on a short ride to some small nearby villages
called Grayan L'Hopital, St Vivien and Versac which weren't much to write home
about but it was good to have a little ride.
Sun
came out and so back to camp, then to the beach for some bodysurfing.
Day 15 Tueday 30th Sept 2014
Rest day 3 at Euronat
3 miles (total 522)
Every
night is so peaceful that we're both getting 10 hrs sleep.
Weather
is perfect with a day time high of 24 degrees and a slight N/W breeze.
Day 16 Wednesday 1st Oct 2014
Rest day 4 at Euronat
20 miles (total 542)
Another
rest day and another blissful 10 hours sleep.
As
prices on camp are a little high when staying for a whole week, this morning I
went on a shopping trip up to Soulac sur Mer which is about 8 miles North up
the road. It was also nice to get out on the bike again.
Popped
into the TIC in Soulac to use some free wifi (as it's quite expensive on camp)
and after shopping, I get back to camp about noon and go to the beach. Lovely
sunny weather again. Just right for getting rid of the rather unattractive
cyclists stripey tan.
Day 17 Thursday 2nd Oct 2014
Rest day 5 at Euronat
2 miles (total 544)
Yet
another sunny day and have managed to "acquire" a parasol which I've
positioned above my tent to help prevent the inside reaching the temperature of
the surface of the sun.
After
returning from a hard day at the beach the large communal unisex showers are
bliss. No worries about trying to keep your clothes dry, or balancing on one
leg to get back into your shorts. We head to the central square and to the
cyber cafe to charge our devices and sit in the evening sun with a few beers.
Day 18 Friday 3rd Oct 2014
Rest day 6 at Euronat
23 miles (total 567)
Another
shopping trip up to Soulac which seems like a nice little town with all you
need but not too big. To get there this time I used the Voie Verte which was 10
miles instead of 8 by road.
With
panniers loaded full of beer, wine, cheese and all sorts of other goodies I
head back as the heat of the day is really hitting.
To
the beach and the waves are massive. It was also really too hot so I didn't
stay that long and decided I'd be better off with a shower and to sit under my
parasol and make "beer O'clock" a little earlier than days previous.
Went
to check out the sunset in the evening and bumped into a nice German woman that
had a very cool old post bike. It had a very small front wheel and a massive
rack on the front making me think it might make for an interesting touring
bike, apart from the fact it weighed an absolute tonne.
Day 19 Saturday 4th Oct 2014
Euronat to Lege-Cap-Ferret
55
miles (total 622)
Dropping
into reception at Euronat they discount us 1 day for staying a week which is
pretty good we think as it's not only one of the best sites we've been on but
it's a reasonable price anyway.
We
take the "piste" down to Lacanau Ocean where I knew of a campsite I
stayed at last year that wanted a crazy 20 euros. This year they wanted 23
euros so we passed on that one.
We
dropped into the TIC at Lacanau and got info of a municipal site in
Lege-Cap_Ferret called "la Praire" but when we arrive we realised, on
a previous trip, we'd stayed at a place next door called "Aux Coulers du
Ferret" which was owned by a farmer and was lovely and quirky (and so was
the campsite) but is now run by a younger couple which are still very nice but
"improvements" have meant that the rather lovely and quirky price of
6 Euros last time has gone up to a not so lovely 12.50 Euros. It was still a
very good site and would go back again.
After
attempting to grab some free wifi by reception in between rain showers I gave
up and cooked up some chorizo pasta in my porch tent as the rain came down.
Camping
Aux Coulers du Ferret 12.50 Euros for 2 ( free wifi )
Day 20 Sunday 5th Oct 2014
Lege-Cap-Ferret to Dune du Pilat
34 miles (total 656)
Bit
of wifi-ing at the campsite and then onto the Voie Verte through Ares where we
stop at Leclerc for supplies and then onto Biganos and to the Dune du Pilat.
Very good cycle path but a few missing signs.
The
campsite we stayed at before “la Floret" was closed so we cycled a bit
further to "camping Pyla" which is very expensive at 19.10 euros for
both of us. After setting up camp we took a walk up the dune to get a view and
take some shots of the Arcachon basin.
Back
to camp for beer, cheese and wine and a good night sleep with the sound of the
sea.
Camping
Pyla 19.10 Euros for 2 (free wifi)
Day 21 Monday 6th Oct 2014
Dune du Pilat to Mimizan Plage
49 miles (total 705)
Had
our pre-ordered PaR at reception and headed down the Voie Verte. I originally
didn't like the idea of taking the Voie Verte as so many of them take you round
the houses but this one was great with only a little extra distance but well
worth it.
The
plan was to skip Biscarosse plage and head to the TIC in Biscarosse
as it was bigger and more likely to have a TIC that was open only to find that
that there was no TIC in "Bisc" but there was one in Bisc Plage,
assumption being the mother of all mistakes.
Going
to the town hall and asking them to call various TIC s led to nothing as they
were all closed too. We decided to wing it and head for Mimizan Plage and go
for anything we found on the way. We bumped into 4 cycle tourers (3 Spanish and
1 English) going the other way and, after a long chat about all things of a
touring nature, they told us that they stayed at Mimizan Plage last night . As
the heavens started to open we got to Mimizan plage campsite, went to reception
only to be told it was closed. The main stumbling block for them to let us in
seem to be their inability to supply us with a receipt. After some
pleading that all we need is some grass and hot water they let us in.
The
grass and hot water costs 17.80 Euros for 2.
After
set up and shower I'm in the tent in the dry, while it's tipping it down
outside. Enjoying a really nice quiche I bought at "Mimizan Plage"
earlier. Washed down with a nice Bordeaux.
Nice
full moon and big ocean sounds though the night.
Camping
Municipal Mimizan Plage 17.80 for 2
Day 22 Tuesday 7th Oct 2014
Mimizan Plage to Moliets-et-Maa
37 miles (total 742)
Got
an early start as Bob said the forecast was for heavy rain quite early. We
skipped breaky at camp and de-camped early and hit the patisserie in Mimizan
plage. Quick stop at the TIC for more info and Wifi and we're onto a really
nice section of Voie Verte down to Contis Plage where we used an Aire to boil
up some eggs, make a brew and take a break.
Then
on to "St Giron Plage". We cycled with an Irish guy called
"Fergal" for quite a few miles. He was heading for Spain too. Nice
chatting with him as we rolled our way through the pine forest.
We
let him roll on as we stopped for supplies at Leon and then camped at
Moliets-et-Maa.
Camping
Cigales 14.20 Euros for 2
Day 23 Wednesday 8th Oct 2014
Moliet et Maa to St Jean de Luz
62 miles (total 804)
Finding
the Voie Vert proved tricky due to bad signage. The route itself was great, all
through pine forests and generally flat with just a few bumps and humps to make
it interesting. We made a mistake along the way and missed a sign and found
ourselves at Souston so we've had to double back a few miles.
We
stopped in Vieux-Boucau-les-Bains to get info at the TIC but they were totally
useless. The PaC and the Quiche in "Vieux", however, were excellent.
Back
on the Voie Verte down to Hossegor.
And
then to Cabreton and to Bayonne which was noisy and busy (usual city stuff
really).
We
got to Biarritz and the waves were massive, catching some people out on the
beach by soaking them and all their belongings in mini Tsunamis.
Went
to the TIC to get camp info and was told that the sites we were looking to stay
at would be open. When we arrived, they weren't open. The staff from the closed
campsite were very helpful and tried to come up with some ideas and suggested a
nearby beach that had toilet and showers.
We
headed back there and had chosen a spot for the night that wasn't very good, as
it was quite in view and had a dodgy guy hanging about, but it was all we had.
It was raining quite a bit and we needed to wait for dark to fall so used the
time to head into town to get some supplies.
During
our shopping trip we bumped into some recumbent bike tourers heading south to
Fez in Morocco that said they knew of somewhere a bit further down the coast.
Bob asked me what I thought. Based on the fact we had a very bad spot to camp I
figured it couldn't be much worse so immediately said "lets go for
it".
We
followed the guys (and girl) for quite a few miles. It was dark now and raining
but really hot. My waterproof "breathable" jacket was turning into
something more akin to a sauna suit so I decided that it was better to take it
off. Cycling in just my shorts late at night, in the rain may have looked weird
but it felt pretty good.
The
gang stopped quite a bit and the guy that was leading the group would
occasionally look confused and say things like "this doesn't look familiar"
or "I'm sure it was this way". Bob and I looked at each other without
saying a word but thinking the same thing. In the end we found the place and it
was a really good site.
After
ablutions and a bite to eat we joined "the recumbents" for a chat.
Two of them had quite an interesting set up as they were using hammocks to
sleep in. And one of them was Patrick Field of Dunwich Dynamo fame, soon to be
of London-Fes fame.
Camping
Plage Soubelet (don't know how much as reception was closed and we couldn't find
anyone about)
Day 24 Thursday 9th Oct 2014
St Jean de Luz to Hendaye
18 miles (total 822)
We
saw off "the recumbents" and de-camped in the rain, using a porch of
one of the unused chalets to make packing the tent up a little easier.
The
forecast was for lots of rain all day so we've decided to have a short day.
The
rain didn't really happen but we're having a short day anyway. We hit the TIC
for more info and a mega wifi session.
We've
stopped at a campsite called "Dorrondeguy" and it's only 4 euros. It's
at the back end of an industrial estate and seems to be used by some of the
workers there. The lady owner is nice and there's free wifi. The pitches are
really muddy but ok.
Sat
under the canopy at reception with some beers and chorizo with wine and cheese
to follow while using the wifi.
Didn't
get much sleep as all we could hear was a middle aged couple talking all night.
In
the morning I got chatting with a guy from England that knew all the people I
knew in Fuerteventura.
Camping
Dorrondeguy 4 euros each (free wifi)
Day 25 Friday 10th Oct 2014
Hendaye to Igueldo
28
mile (total 850)
Out
of the campsite and a PaC/baguette stop which was really good. Then along the
front through Hendaye passing all the surfers and their campervans.
Using
an app called "Bikehub" I discovered there was a passenger ferry that
also takes bikes across the estuary into Spain. It wasn't that far to go round
but it was a nice little journey across on the ferry and only 3.70 Euros for
both of us.
From
the moment we landed on the Spanish side there's a different feel despite the
short distance. It's busier and noisier but we get lots of respect and space
given on the roads. We hit some motorway stuff and a tunnel to go through but
after that from Irun to Iturriotz we had some lovely scenery and awesome downhills.
Found a nice carril Bici from Pasaia to San Sebastian.
We
pick up supplies in the city and headed to the "funicular" that takes
us up to the mountainside above the city.
For
some reason this time the guy working on the funicular doesn't want to take our
bikes. After some negotiation and telling him that we'll travel separately he
allows us on.
We
didn't have this issue last time and also his colleague was fine with us so we
have the idea it's just this one guy that maybe got out the wrong side of his
cama.
Spectacular
views from the top.
We
get on our way and it's not far down the road when the front wheel of my bike
starts making a clicking noise. On further inspection we find out it's one or
more of the spokes. There's nothing that looks really serious and we're not far
from our intended camping stop so decide to ride on and give it a better look
there.
"Camping
Igueldo" isn't cheap at 18.20 Euros for both of us but it's a nice site
with free wifi and a nice but very noisy (we are in Spain after all) bar.
I
check out my spokes and there isn't anything wrong, just some surface rust
patches where they touch. A little clean with some WD40 and it's ok again.
Met
a nice young couple from Bristol that cycled off road on full suss mountain
bikes all across the Southern side of the Pyrenees from Barcelona. They had no
panniers at all. Everything they carried was on their backs, including their
tent.
Camping
Igueldo 18.20 euros for 2 ( free wifi )
Day 26 Saturday 11th Oct 2014
Igueldo to Mutriku
30 miles (Total 880)
A bit of a climb to start and then a long and winding downhill
section where we were "tailgating" a "roady lycra
lout" who seemed a little surprised by the speed we were doing downhill
with such loaded bikes. There were loads of roadies out, mostly in large
peletons. All of them gave us a nod and/or shouted "hola!"
With
no hands on the handlebars and no helmet on I rolled into Zaroutz past a police
car and to the TIC for camp info. We did have the idea to head inland but there
only seems to be campsites on the coast. Some of the rooms we were told about
were really expensive (5 times what we are paying for camping).
We've
decided to carry on along the coast. On the way out of Zarautz I’m riding along
taking a video of the coastline when 2 Police on motorbikes pull us over
telling us we have to wear helmets. They tell us to go back into Zarautz and
buy one. We say yes and wait for them to go. We carry on along the pavement for
a while in the hope of putting some distance between us. We find them later on
along the road coming out of a bar so we stop for a couple of beers at the bar
as they ride off into the distance again. It was a nervous day watching out for
them around every corner.
We
get to Mutriku and are staying at the nice, empty and expensive Aitzeta camping
which has a great view over the harbour and out to sea.
Camping Aitzeta 20 Euros for 2 (free wifi)
Day 27 Sunday 12th Oct 2014
Rest Day in Mutriku
0 miles (total 880)
We've
decided to take a rest day as we're in a nice place and the weather is good.
Walked down in to Mutriku village which is really nice and has some nice bars
which sell good tapas at reasonable prices.
The
harbour has a free open air swimming pool that is filled up by the sea on high
tide.
On
return to our campsite we find another guest has joined us. For some reason,
although there are about 100 plots on the site, the owner has put this new
guest right next to us, which wouldn't be that bad but he has a dog.
A
disturbed night sleep with dogs barking all night long, one of which has
entered the campsite and left a rather large gift for us on the path to the
toilets.
Camping
Atizeta 20 Euros for 2 (free wifi)
Day 28 Monday 13th Oct 2014
Mutriku to Lekeitio
15 miles (total 895)
As
we have low mileage to do from now we've decided to take it easy and stop in
Mutriku village for a coffee. A gentle, short and lovely ride to Leketio where
we stop in town for a couple of beers and some tapas. We nip to the supermarket
and then hit the big hill up to the campsite.
The
site is empty which is nice as we can have our pick of which plot we want.
Camping
Leagi 16.60 Euros for 2 ( free wifi )
Day 29 Tuesday 14th Oct 2014
Leketio to Mundaka
25 miles (total 920)
Out
of the campsite and down the steep hill into Leketio village for coffee and a
delicious ham and cheese tortilla. Out of town and the hills start, and so does
the heat. After about 12 miles we get to the top and enjoy 4 miles of downhill.
Along
the way I'm joined by a little thin green guy trying to hitchhike on my
bellend:
Now
in Mundaka and at the campsite we were at a last time. They don't have hot
water which isn't an issue as it means one thing : DISCOUNT. Normally it's 21
Euros but with the cold water discount it's 8.40 Euros. Which is pretty good
considering it’s often difficult to tell the difference between hot and cold
water in Spain anyway.
Went
into town for some beers and some nice tapas at the main bar by the harbour.
Camping
Portuondo 8.40 Euros with cold water discount (normally 21 Euros) ( free wifi )
Day 30 Wednesday 15th Oct 2014
Mundaka to Sopelana
25 miles (total 945)
Grey, with light rainy start and stopped in Bermeo for coffee and cake. Then some punishing hills start with more rain and strong headwind thrown into the mix. Add copious amounts of traffic and it's not the best bit of cycling we've done on this trip. Having said that, the Spanish drivers are very patient and respectful to us, waiting for the right moment to pass and giving us the legal 1.5 metres space as they do so.
After
quite a few miles of uphill I reach the summit and my bike seems to pull into a
rather nice little bar where I have a couple of nice beers and some equally
nice Tapas while I wait for Bob to arrive.
Then
the descent, and what a descent it was. To start with it was a little
disappointing as, with the head wind, we're still pedalling but downhill. After
a few turns however, we're flying at 37mph down and round and into Mungia where
I stop and have another beer and a tortilla while I wait for Bob who has been
hiding from the helmet police again.
On
to Sopelana where we're camping for the night. It was supposed to be expensive
but on arrival the office is closed and the place looks quite grubby.
We
pop into town for some beer and tapas. The town wasn't that nice. It felt
scruffy, dirty and overrun with dogs. It was quite hard to find an inviting
place for tapas. We did find one place called la Cerveceria which was good.
On
returning to the campsite the owner catches us and we pay the extortionate
amount of 24 euros for the dump we're staying in.
Nice
night sleep though, with just the sound of crickets and the sea.
Camping Soplelana 24 Euros for 2 (no wifi)
Day 31 Thursday 16th Oct 2014
Sopelana to Castro Urdiales
25 miles (total 970)
Rainy
start and into Algorta for a “tarta de arroz”. I've never had one before and I
wouldn't be that disappointed if I never had one again. A bit further down the
road we stop for something a little more substantial and better where we sit
and have coffee and a tortilla.
Into
Bilbao and the sun is trying it's best to make an appearance and it's getting
very warm. Across the transporter bridge (designed by the same engineer as the
one in Rochefort France) which is quick, easy and cheap at only a couple of
Euros with the bike.
We
stop by the bridge the other side and buy a massive slice of ham and cheese
pizza for only 1.20 Euros. Then off through Santurzi and Zierbena and then lots
of climbing to Pobena where we stayed last time using the foot bridge as the
tide was out on this occasion.
We're
still without helmets and there seems to be Police everywhere. I'm not sure if
they see us as I don't tend to look them in the eye but we've passed quite a
lot of them.
Onto
the N634 and we climb a 10% hill which is quite tough in the heat and humidity.
Then as we're flying down into Castro Urdiales we pass another 5 Guardia Civil
that all look at me as I whizz past but none give chase. Maybe the reason we
haven't been stopped is that they think we're on El Camino de Santiago.
Castro
Urdiales is nice with a prom winding it's way all around its bays and beaches
to the main town where we stop for a few beers and I have some excellent
boquerones.
Off
to the supermarket and, as is customary in this region, we find our campsite on
the top of a very steep hill. It's imaginatively called "Camping
Urdiales" and isn't a bad site. We start to pitch up but then move because
of a nearby dog. Setting up in a different spot we also get better shelter from
the overnight wind and rain.
We
get up early and de-camp before the office is open and again make use of the
"early bird special bunking discount".
Camping Castro Urdiales 16 Euros for 2 (when not taking advantage of early bird special discount).
Day 32 Friday 17th Oct 2014
Castro Urdiales to Somo
40 miles (total 1010)
An early start and we're heading along the N634 which is pretty hilly and getting warmer by the hour (9am and it's already 20 degrees).
Awesome
downhill into Liendo where I stop for my first coffee of the day. Up some more
hills and then a nice sweeping downhill section into Laredo, whizzing past
(still without helmet) another policeman in a car at the side of the road.
We
did have in idea to stay in Laredo but all campsites are closed. As we've
arrived early we've decided to push on to Somo. After more hills and some
serious headwind we arrive in Somo and check out one of the sites called
Camping Derby Loredo. It's quite exposed to the strong wind coming off the sea
so we take a look at Camping Somo parque which on first arrival seems a bit
grubby and may have some dodgy people living there. After checking it out
properly we find a nice little quiet spot right at the back of the campsite all
to ourselves.
We
popped into town briefly and when we came back the campsite bar was buzzing
with loads of drunk Spanish from the site. It actually looked like quite a good
atmosphere there though.
Very
windy over night and a great night sleep as it was nice and quiet with no dogs
barking.
Camping
Somo Parque 15 Euros for 2 ( no Wifi )
Day 33 Saturday 18th Oct 2014
Rest day in Somo
5 miles (total 1015)
Went
into town for coffee and then a walk along the beach to the end of the spit to
get our kit off. It's amazingly hot, especially considering it's well almost 3
weeks into October.
Back
to town and into a surfy bar called "Mar le Salada" for some beer,
some really good pinchos and a couple of games of pool.
Back
to camp a little early and drop into the campsite bar. Everyone is singing (or
at least trying to) and someone brings an old guitar out and insists on me
playing. I do my best and, despite all the beers I've had, seem to be holding a
few tunes together. Well, everyone seemed to like it, or they were too pissed
to know any different (or both).
Day 34 Sunday 19th Oct 2014
Rest day 2 in Somo
7 miles (total 1024)
Another
good quiet night sleep. Forecast is good with sun forecast.
I
head into town for supplies, back to camp and then back to town again for
coffee, cake and then hit the beach. It clouds over so head back to the surf
bar for beer, tapas and a few games of pool.
Back
at camp it seems quite a few people have left and it's a lot quieter.
Day 35 Monday 20th Oct 20145
Rest day 3 in Somo
5 miles (total 1029)
Another rest day. Bob heads to the beach and I go to the local bar for a "menu del dia" and choose a mixed salad for starter, steak and chips for main and ice cream for desert. Half a bottle of wine is included, so is the basket of bread. I add a small coffee to it and it all only costs 10 Euros.
Now
sitting by the tent in the dappled sunlight reading and getting a few other
bits done.
A
bit later we drop into town for some beers, tapas and a few games of pool with
some Spanish guys with strange rules.
Back
to the camp and a few more beers and tapas for supper.
Day 36 Tuesday 21st Oct 2014
Somo to Santander
12
miles (total 1041)
The
ferry takes about 30 mins to cross and is only 2.65 Euros with the bike. The
journey round isn't far but we did that last time so thought that this time
we'd use the ferry. And also, as you don’t have to wear a helmet in urban areas,
it keeps us safe from the helmet police for the last leg of the journey.
Landing
at Santander we head for the TIC for wifi, city map and camping options, of
which there really only seems to be one called Camping Virgen del Mar. It's on
the other side of town by quite a few miles. It's also expensive at 20 Euros
for both of us but it's very clean and they have a no dog policy which is great.
Although somewhat ironically a cat pissed on my tent.
The
site is absolutely spotless, has perfect pitches and has a good toilet block.
Popped
into the nearest supermarket, which was in a massive out-of-town precinct which
was horrible.
As
I went into the shop I was told I had to put my pannier bag in the locker. I
had no money to operate the lockers and my bag was too big anyway. I wouldn't
be allowed through with the bag unless it was wrapped in cling film so I hand
my bag to the female "security guards" and watched them cling film
wrap my bag up as though I was passing through passport control. For some
reason my handlebar bag or my pockets weren't a security issue.
Back
to camp for a clean up and to one of the bars by the sea which is a short walk
from the camp. Nothing going on there so back to the campsite bar where roughly
the same amount of activity was going on but they did have a pool table where
we had a few games.
Then
back to the tents for wine and tapas.
Great
night sleep with no dogs barking.
Camping
Virgen del Mar 20 Euros (free wifi)
Day 37 Wednesday 22nd Oct 2014
Santander ferry
9
miles (total 1050)
After
one of the most peaceful nights sleep since Euronat, courtesy of the no dog
policy, we slowly de-camp and head into Santander centre. Bob heads off to do
his own thing and I go for a "Menu del Dia" at Meson Casa Mariano
which is a great place I found last time.
I
sit outside so I can watch the world go by and also make sure they don't wander
off with my bike.
The
food was amazing and such good value.
First
course is a stew called "Cocida Montanes" which had beans, veg, pork
and beef in it and would have been enough on its own. The second course was
beef in a nice sauce with some fries. I didn't have room for dessert so went
for a small coffee. All this plus half bottle of wine and a basket of bread for
11 Euros in the middle of the city. AMAZING !
Met
Bob at the TIC and bumped into some girls from Bristol that had cycled round
Europe. They were also waiting for the same ferry back to Portsmouth.
On
the ship and it all looks nice and flat. It didn't stay that way, but less of
that. For the first time we have a cabin, not by choice but that was the only
option we could get. And it did provide the best hot shower we’d had since
leaving France.
Nice Sailing out of
Santander port. 
Adios Espana ! Hasta la proxima !
