From
the South of England to Barcelona
Here
are some stats:
35
days
1209
miles
Average
35 miles a day (this includes all rest days)
No
punctures (touch Wood)
One
damaged Achilies tendón (hence the amount of days taken(more about
that later))
30
quiches and 30 Pain aux Raisin eaten
? bottles of Bordeaux
? bottles of Bordeaux
Average
cost of camping 10 euros (cheapest was 3 euros 50, most expensive was
20) per night
Brief
Info about bike, camping ítems and extras:
- Thorn Sherpa standard 2013 model with Deore brakes/gears
- Tyres are Panaracer tourguard 1.75 tyres and Schwalbe innertubes( i change them to Schrader so i´d have more availablity of pump if mine broke/got nicked)
- Upgraded to Hope hollowtech Bottom Bracket(as my last Shimano BB51 one only lasted just over 1000 miles)
- Lock is a Kryptonite D lock with cable.
- Pump is a Topeak roadmorph G
- Stove is a Higear collapsable stove with an Eldrid adaptor for using Camping gaz cartridges
- Tent is old Alpha 200
- Matress is Thermarest (with chair kit)
- Sleeping bag is basic 3 season eurohike jobby
- Maps i´m using are the yellow Michelin ones that show cycle routes but although these are only bought last year a few of the routes aren´t shown. In addition to these maps i would get some other cycle path (or Voir Verte) info, along with campsite info, from the Tourist Info Centre(TIC) once i had a rough idea of my mileage i´d be doing.
- One rock peg which has been invaluable for some site as some of the pitches are more like hardstandings than anything.
i knew
from previous experience that during this route down through France,
even though it could be 30 degrees and sunny, at this time of year i
could have problem with campsites being open. There were issues with
this so i would have to think ahead and go to the TIC(Tourist Info
Centre) earlier in the day to get a heads up for my next campsite.
This would sometimes mean i would have to adjust my mileage
significantly to make it fit.
=============================================================================
Day
1 Tuesday 10th Sept 2013
Poole to Brockenhurst
Poole to Brockenhurst
27
miles (total 27)
Thought
i´d done a half decent job of packing light and keeping things
fairly minimalistic but for some reason my bike weighs 47kgs.
I
wanted to get an early arrival into St malo and the best ferry for
that was one going out of Portsmouth so day 1 and 2 is getting to
Porstmouth. I had thought of doing the 61 miles straight off but
decided in the end to make it a more relaxed start to the trip.
I
met my friend Bob at Bournemouth Pier and used the promenade to
Christchurch. Using the NCN route 2 through Christchurch and the New
Forest to Brockenhurst where we camped using the website
“campinmygarden”
Camping
was 8 pounds each
Day
2 Wednesday 11th Sept
Brockenhurst to Portsmouth
Brockenhurst to Portsmouth
34
miles (total 61)
Continuing
on the next day and through the New Forest using NCN 2 to Hythe and
the old train that takes you to the ferry across to Southampton.
Still using NCN 2 and taking the very small, quirky and very pink
ferry at Hamble –Rice to Warsash and onto Portsmouth via another
ferry not quite so small, quirky or pink.
Stopped
by Portsmouth harbour and had a few drinks with Bob until his train
was due to take him back home.
Got
on the ferry at Portsmouth which would leave at 8pm and ge tinto St
Malo at 8am
Camping
in France out of season:
72
miles (total 134)
Off
the ferry bright and early and headed over the Rance dam to pick up
the “Voir Verte” cycle path that goes from Dinard due south to
Dinan. it´s a little tricky to find. Head west over the main
bridge(dam) in the direction of Dinard until you get to the first big
roundabout on the main road, then head south towards Pleurtuit where
it´s easier to find as it goes through the south end of the town.
This
“Voir Verte” takes you all the way to Dinan. From there i used
the D793 to Broons for a Leffe stop, onto Merdrignac and then the
D6/D304 to Mauron where youfind another Voir Verte heading SSW. I
used this all the way to Loyat where i stopped at Camping “Le
Enchanter” which is a nice place right off the Voir Verte and is 9
Euros for the night. It has a heated indoor pool but i was running a
bit late and just wanted to eat, drink and flop.
Day 4 Friday 13th
Sept
Loyat to Fegreac
Loyat to Fegreac
52 miles (total 186)
Back on the Voir
Verte to Malestroit where i picked up the Brest-Nantes canal which is
great (all flat, no cars and beautiful scenery) .
Dropped into Redon to the TIC to get camp info and was told there was one in Fegreac which wasn´t quite true as it was in Bellion, which i passed by on the canal only to climb a steep hill to Fegreac , do another 5 miles and come back full circle to the campsite (that wasn´t marked)i passed an hour previous.
Well, the good side
is that is was really cheap and quite good. Very basic as it´s a
Municipal site but perfectly decent place especially for 3 euros 40
cents.
Day 5 Saturday 14th Sept
Fegreac to St.Michel Chef Chef
42 miles (total 228)
De-camped in heavy
rain. The English guys in the camper next to me made me a cuppa.
Amazing the spirit lifting ability of a cup of tea. As my tea was
being diluted by the rain i decided to head off. As they sat in their
nice dry camper i waved them goodbye and into the downpour.
I was going to
follow the “rest of the Brest” into Nantes but with the rain i
went for the shortest route south and over the St Nazaire bridge
which isn´t the nicest bridge to cross, being that it doesn´t have
a cycle path and with a side wind and some rain thrown it wasn´t
that pleasant but it did it´s job in getting me south quicker and to
my campsite at St Michel Chef Chef.
I camped at la Bord
su mer where the woman at reception , after asking the price, wrote
15 euros on a bit of paper. I asked about anything cheaper and she
wrote 10 euros on a bit of paper which i accepted.
48 miles (total 276)
Woke up to sun and
remembering it was sunday made for the Supermarket before 12 to get
supplies so have lugged my beer, wine and supplies the full 48 miles.
Using the “Velocean”
route which is really nice but does take you out of your way quite a
bit. So much so that during my ride south i could often find the
route taking me North. Nice scenery but i prefer it in the direction
i´m more or less going.
About 20 miles in
i´m starting to feel some pain in my achilies tendon area. After 30
miles it´s a lot worse. i´ve pressed on and i´m at a campsite in
St Jean de Mont called les Salines which is virtually empty. i´m the
only one in a tent.
Camping Les salines
9 euros 70 cents
Days 7, 8 and 9 are rest days(although i seemd to have managed to do 29 miles in total on these rest days) as tendon isn´t good which is a shame as the winds are northerly.
I console myself
with menu du jours each day at 13 euros for 3 coarses with wine.
Day 10 Thursday 19th Sept
St.Jean de Mont to Les Sables D´Olonne
32 miles (total 337)
grey and cool so
good for riding. Tendon a bit better but taking it easy and riding
with mostly right leg.
St Gilles was nice
and a better feel than St Jean.
Onto Les Sables
D´Olonne and checked TIC and used their free Wifi to find campsite
which i found just outside to the S/E of Les Sables called Les Fosses
Rouges which was 10 euros with a nice guy running the place , free
wifi and a cover from the rain to eat and drink my own suppiles.
Day 11 Friday 20th Sept
Les Sables D´Olonne to La Tranche sur Mer
29 miles (total 366)
Camping in a place
called La Griere Plage just outside La Tranche sur Mer. 2 star
camping called “la Grande Vallee” and it´s really good. 9 euros
, clean , free wifi and a patio in the sun.
Day 12 Saturday 21st Sept
La Tranche sur Mer to L´Aiguillon sur Mer
15 miles (total 381)
after starting out
and thinking tendon was slowly on the mend i get a bad pain and have
to stop. I camp in L´Aiguillon sur Mer at the municipal campsite
where i seem to be sharing space with a large squadron of mozzies.
And..
.. i managed to drop
my 1.5 kg lock on my bad foot . Oh, that´ll help !
Day 13 Sunday 22nd Sept
12 miles (total 393)
another rest day and
tendon feeling better. Went to the local naturist beach near La Faute
sur Mer which was quite good.
Day 14 Monday 23rd
Sept
L´Aiguillon sur Mer to La Rochelle
L´Aiguillon sur Mer to La Rochelle
40 mile (total 433)
After rest day my tendon is better and say goodbye to the resident campsite mozzies cycling through the marshland(that´l explain the mozzies then ) and checked out the campsite at Esnandes but as i would have been the the only target in an even more mozzie ridden campsite i decided to move on and found my way to the outskirts of La Rochelle where i saw a campsite that didn´t allow dogs (which is always a good sign) . Went into la Rochelle to get supplies and got back to find someone had parked next to me with their dog so not happy.
Camping les Trois
Lys 9 euros 50
Day 15 Tuseday 24th Sept
La Rochelle to Marennes
Day 15 Tuseday 24th Sept
La Rochelle to Marennes
47 miles (total 480)
popped into La
Rochelle TIC and nearby bought an awesome Pain aux Raisin and an
amazing salmon quiche.
Stopped at Chatelion
Plage which was nice and had one of the best coffee´s and watched
the world go by.
Stopped at Rochefort
TIC for camp info and headed south to the “transborder bridge”
which is over 100 years old, only 1 euro 50 cents and is a total
“must”.
Not only is a really
nice crossing instead of the large bridge to the west but it also
takes you straight onto the best road heading due south to the next
cycle path along the canal de Seudre. This wasn´t the easiest to
find but with some very bad French i found it and glad i did too as
it was a lovely ride. Then onto a cycle route though marshland which
was signposted fairly well all the way to Marennes where i´m camping
in a place called Au Bon Air which also seems to have it´s fair
share of mozzies which were attacking as i decamped the next day.
Day 16 Wednesday 25th Sept
Marennes to Grayan-et-L´Hopital
41 miles (total 521)
foggy start which
was nice and cool.
Over bridge to
Tremblade and picked up 2 nice quiches.
Easy riding down to
Royan using some quite D roads and cycle paths.
Missed the 2pm ferry
at Royan by 2 mins but because of that met nice French and Spanish
guy cycle touring.
Got the 3.45 ferry.
Landed at port bloc
and used the coastal cycle route to Euronat (great site) near Grayan-et-L´Hopital where the
French guy(Thierry) and myself shared a camp spot so halved the cost.
Euronat camping 6.40
(when sharing emplacement)
Day 17 Thursday 26th Sept
6 miles(that´s how
big the campsite is as i didn´t go anywhere but to the beach )
(total 527)
chillout day
camping on my own
cost me 12.40
Day 18 Friday 26th
Sept
Grayan-et-L´Hopital to Lacanau Ocean
Grayan-et-L´Hopital to Lacanau Ocean
40 miles (total 567)
Despite forecast of
blistering sun it was pleasant with quite a bit of cloud. Flat and on
the “piste” all the way . Got into Lacanau Ocean and there was
only one campsite open that was unfortunately a 4 star. My experience
of 4 star campsites isn´t 4 star and this was no exception. It was
called the “air hotel” and was 20 euros for the night. i´m not
sure why their ground cost more than the others but when i asked the
woman said it was because i was by the ocean. Telling her that i´d
been by the ocean for 2 weeks and my normal price for camping was 10
euros didn´t seem to have much effect.
Day 19 Saturday 28th Sept
Lacanau Ocean to Mios
44 miles (total 611)
i hit the TIC in
Lacanau for more info and some Wifiing.
Using the road down
to Ares i experienced some disrespectful driving which isn´t my
general experience of being in France. Got back on the Piste at Lege
and it was really nice. Stopped in Biganos for supplies but found all
there was were large USA style mega-shopping malls.
On to Mios where i
found nice quiet(at the time of arriving) campsite called “camping
L´Eyre”. Despite it being a municpal site i found it better than
the 4 star one previous.
Mega loud disco
music started up at 9pm and went through to 3 am.
31 miles (total 642)
i hit the TIC at
Mios which surprisingly was open but the woman their was bordering on
useless so i figured i was just going to wing it finding a campsite
later that day.
Got supplies from a
deli and the most incredible”Basque quiche” which was as tasty as
it was expensive. Using the Piste was easy going from Mios through
Salles and Belin-Béliet and beyond through milea and miles of pine
trees with virtuall nobody around. On some stretches i would do 10
miles without a soul.
I took this route ,
heading towards Langon and the Canal Du Midi as i wanted to avoid
going through Bordeaux as i´m not the fan of the big city and had
the feeling this would be a more pleasant route even though it would
put more mile to the trip.
Found nice quiet
campsite just south of St.Symphorien for 8.50 with free wifi.
Before going to
sleep i unlocked one of the closed bathrooms with my multitool and
charged everything over night.
Cycling off in the
morning i felt so happy with the simple fact that i had all my
electrical goods charged.
Day 21 Monday 30th Sept
St. Symphorien to Meilhan sur Garonne
40 miles (total 682)
more empty,
monotonous Piste to Roallin and then road into Langon where, this
time , got very good info from the TIC. Picked up 2 maps that showed
the Canal du Midi with all it´s campsites along the way.
Arrived at Meilhan
sur Garonne where i found the “lock keeper” to be from the UK
and running the empty municipal campsite next to the canal.
Connection to wifi
there was 50 and they have cheap cans of beer of which i purchased a
few and sat chatting with a few Kiwis and Ozzies.
Campsite was basic ,
good , quiet and cheap at 3.70 plus a euro for the shower which
didn´t work so i had to have a cold shower but didn´t mind as it
was a warm evening.
Day 22 Tuesday 1st
Oct
Meilhan sur Garonne to Valence D´Agen
Meilhan sur Garonne to Valence D´Agen
65 miles (total 747)
usual “first
light” start and quiche/Pain aux Raisin stop in town which was up
8% hill(too early for that) and back on the canal Piste. Lovely
riding and beautiful scenery.
Camping at Valence
D´Agen which is only 6 euros but seems to be full of mozzies. Having
to employ ninja style techniques to get in and out of tent without
bringing half the insect population in with me. So humid and the
“Silence after 10pm” sign seems to mean nothing.
Day 23 Wednesday
2nd Oct
Valence D´Agen to Grissoles
Valence D´Agen to Grissoles
41 miles (total 788)
no camp coffee as
too many mozzies .
Moissac was a nice
town where i stopped early for the usual Quiche and P.A.Raisin and
also to check the TIC early for camp info.
Got to campsite in
Grissoles which is good . I have my own “backpacker” section
above the other campsite with own picnic table.
Internet is 50 cents
it was 31 degress
today and 20 degrees at night .
Camping at Grissoles
10 Euros
Day 24 Thursday 3rd
Oct
Grissoles to Deyme
Grissoles to Deyme
32 miles (total 820)
de-camped just
intime before rain started.
Quiche and P.A.R
stop in town and into head wind towards Toulouse. Coming into the
outskirts of the town there are people living next to the canal in
either tents or make-shift sheds. Some of the dwellings have been
there so long that they now have their own post boxes.
Centre of town was
all the usual trendy and expensive shops. What a diference.
Stopped for very
nice menu du jour , by the canal on way out of town , mainly to get
out of the rain. It was 20 euros with 2 coarses , wine and coffee.
Camped up at Deyme
for 8 euros.
Initially the woman
at reception said it was closed to tents but maybe out of pity she
allowed me to stay there.
There was supposed
to be a big storm so i was shown to a emplacement that shouldn´t
flood.
During the night we
didn´t get a drop of rain and i de-camped in the dry.
Camping les
Violettes 8 euros
Day 25 Friday 4th
Oct
Deyme to Alzonne
Deyme to Alzonne
43 miles (total 863)
back on the canal
and getting into Castelnaudary the towpath has really deteriorated. I
head into the town and just as i stop outside a bar the heavens
opened with such ferrocity i had no choice but to stop and
shelter.... and have a couple of beers. The roads turned into rivers
within a couple of minutes. After the downpoor had stopped i headed
to the TIC, then attempted to get back on the tow path. Bad idea as
the surface has now, along with the tree roots, has turned to a
clay/mud mixture which nicely fills my mudguards to the point that i
can´t even push my bike along. At which point i abandon the tow path
and hit the road where for, not the first time, i´m not getting the
respect i´d had in previous rides through France.
Camping at “la
Pujade” in Alzonne which is good. Free wifi and 10 Euros .
Day 26 Saturday 5th
Oct
Alzonne to Rustiques
Alzonne to Rustiques
as forecast the wind
is westerly and the sun is out. Using the small roads was really nice
wi wonderful scenery . Into Carcassonne and went up to the “Cite”
which is definately worth a visit despite it´s touristic feel.
Out of Carcassonne
and through Trebes and onto Rustiques where i camp for the night.
The place is a 3
star(whatever that means) and empty.
Camping Rustique 10
euros with free wifi
Day 27 Sunday 6th
Oct
Rustiques to Narbonne
Rustiques to Narbonne
40 miles (total 931)
On the odd occasion
i´d cross over the canal bridge i´d see that the path hadn´t got
any better and was glad i´d made the choice to use the roads.
Into Narbonne which
is quite nice and stopped for a beer talking with some more Ozzies.
Onto the
campsite(Les Florays) just S/E of the city on the canal de la Robine.
it´s a 2 star campsite but is´nt that nice. There is , however free
wifi.
Met an interesting guy at the campsite that was originally from the U.S but was working in Africa and on
a cycle holiday in Southern France. He made comments about how France was changing, what with all the large American style shopping malls etc. saying that it was a shame that the French were copying the "evil state". we talked politics but mainly bikes which always made me laugh as to how much of a bike nerd i´ve turned into.
My tent porch poles
have broken and the campsite guy gives me some tent poles he´s got
lying around. Unfortunately they´re not the right type. Despite my
attempts at modification i have to just make do with tape for now.
Camping Les Floralys
10 euros with free wifi
Day 28 Monday 7th
Oct
Narbonne to Bacares
Narbonne to Bacares
47 miles (total 978)
using the back gate
of the campsite i´m straight onto the canal. I was given a code for
the gate but not sure why as there was no keypad and the gate was
wide open.
The canal and path
is really good. A bit lumpy in places but generally very good with
fantastic views inland over the water to the West and to the Pyrenees
to the S/W and out to the Med to the East.
Into Port la
Nouvelle to get camp info at the TIC and headed south past a massive
lake near Leucate where windsurfers and kite surfers of all
nationalities were gunning it across the water.
Trying to find my
way through the smaller roads i got a bit lost in a naturist village
near Port Leucate and then to Port Bacares where i decided to camp up
as my tendon was complaining a bit again. Camping at Le Bacares is 4
star and not that good and 20 euros.i´m not sure who or how they are
rating these campsite but who ever it is i´d only give them 1 star
at most.
The only thing the
star rating system seems to imply is that 2 star is 10 euros or below
and 4 star is usually about 20 euro. It has very little to do with
the quality of the site or, indeed, if it has it´s own toilet paper.
One good thing about
this campsite is that each plot gets it´s own, albeit old and
without toilet paper, private bathroom.
The ground though is
almost like hard standing and i´m so glad i brought my rock peg.
Day 29 Tuesday 8th Oct
Bacares to Argeles Plage
29 miles (total
1007)
because of
strenghtening one of the other broken tent poles i now have another
broken pole to deal with . Finding somewhere to buy tent poles in a
place where hundreds of thousands of people camp should be easy you
would think. But not so. I can´t find a camping shop or a hardware
store very easily at all.
Heading through
Canet plage and into St Cyprien plage and had a nice cold beer where
i met some English ex-pats that told me of a camping shop. I found it
but they didn´t sell poles. I had to buy a beach tent at 20 euros to
rob the poles.
In Argeles Plages
which is quite nice and staying at camping Bouix which is 14.50 euros
which is very central and has free wifi that doesn´t work.
Made up and fitted
“new” tent poles and made some spares (why didn´t i do it before
i left(well, i remembered everything else)).
Camping Bouix 14.50
Day 30 Wednesday 9th Oct
Argeles plage to Roses
14 miles (total
1021)
having rest day
before the hills of the Pyrenees start in the hope my tendon will be
ok.
Found naturist beach
just 4 miles up coast.
Day 31 Thursday 10th
Oct
44 miles (total
1065)
almost straight away out of Argeles the hills start. Through Colliere and a 500m tunnel to Banyuls sur Mer and to the border at Cerbere. The hills are hardwork with the tendon. The downhills are great with lovely scenery.
One one of the
downihills at around 35 mph i hear something snap and slow up and
look back to see my rear wheel reflector shattered in pieces across
the road behind.
Stopped in Llanca
for my first beer(bigger and cheaper) in Spain.
Onto Roses which
seems nice and camping at La Salata. Another 4 star. Got told i´ve
camped in the wrong bit and asked to move which i don´t.
Met a nice German
couple at the TIC in Roses that are cycle touring around the world.
Camping la Salata 17
euros and 2 euros for wifi.
Day 32 Friday 11th Oct
Roses to Palafrugell
42 miles (total
1107)
on the road early
and stopped just out of Roses town at Castello for coffee and
croissant for 2.20 euros. i´d propped my bike on the doorway to the
bar and i was about 2 metres away from it but the barmaid said i
should bring it into the bar or something would be stolen off it.
I didn´t bring it
in but went out to put my bike movement sensor alarm on.
Using some smaller
roads heading south that weren´t very interesting. I got the odd
glimpse of EV8 but i stuck to the roads as they were easier and more
direct.
Bumped into the
German couple again.
Found nice campsite
in Palafrugell called La Siesta which is massive and a large outdoor
pool with a sad looking lifeguard without anyone to guard.
Camping La Siesta 14 euros
Day 33 Saturday 12th Oct
Palafrugell to Blanes
Day 33 Saturday 12th Oct
Palafrugell to Blanes
44 miles (total
1151)
after probably the
best nights camping of the trip i head to get supplies and am missing
the Pain aux Raisin and Quiche already and grab a snickers instead.
On the C31 into
Palamos and the C253 through Platja dÁro which is mega touristy.
Then i hit 14 miles
of some serious hill and switchbacks similar to the Basque country.
More great views of
landscape to the west and the med to the east with glimpses of sandy coves and turquoise sea.
Arrived in Blanes
and going from one campsite to another all were noisy and between 15
and 17 euros. I went further out of town and found a great little
campsite , imaginatively called “camping Blanes” that was quiet,
clean and only 5 euros 60 . it was right on the beach too(wish i
could tell the woman at Lacanau beach campsite). Wifi 1.50 for an
hour
Camping Blanes 5.60
euros
Day 34 Sunday 13th
Oct
rest day and off to
a fantastic naturist beach between Blanes and Lloret de Mar called la
Boadella which is hard to find but is on the Net. it´s in a great
little cove so very sheltered from the wind(not that i needed it that
day as it was very hot and sunny). Water is calm and turquoise and
ideal for snorkelling.
Back at campsite and
met with my friend Merce and went for some drinks and nice tapas in
Blanes town.
Day 35 Monday 14th Oct
Blanes to Mollet de Valles
45 miles (total
1209)
left Blanes and one
of the best campsite so far based on location, price and lack of dogs
and hit the N11 coast road which i thought might me too heavy with
traffic and not nice but in actual fact it was quite good with an
adequate “hard shoulder” virtually all the way and generally
flat. Passing through one town and the next made it more interesting
too.
I stopped at Calella
at a bar to use their wifi which meant i had to order a beer. Ah ,
never mind. Onto Mataro where i stopped for a menu del dia which was
8.50 euros and fairly good.
Out of Mataro on the
C60 to Granollers and through 2km tunnel so “vizzed up” and dug
my rrear light out. Not sure if the car drivers were tooting me for
encouragement or to tell me to get off the bloody road you stupid
man. Well, at that point i didn´t have much choice.
On the whole i have
to say i´ve had a lot more respect from the Spanish drivers giving
me the full legally required 1.5 metres when passing.
After some dificulty
i found the road to Mollet and now stopping with my friend Merce here
in Mollet.
Great blog! I really enjoyed the brevity and pace of your logs.
ReplyDeleteReally nice photo's too
I hope your tendon heals up
jem